Jewelry findings glossary of terms
FINDINGS-The tools and materials used by an artisan.
JEWELRY FINDINGS-The component parts or materials used in making a piece of jewelry.
FUNCTIONAL JEWELRY FINDINGS-The component parts or materials used in making a piece of jewelry that serve a mechanical function such as attaching, joining, linking. Examples of functional jewelry findings include PIN BACK, CATCHES, POST, OMEGA CLIP, SCREW BACK
DECORATIVE JEWELRY FINDINGS-The component parts or materials used in making jewelry that provide the beauty of the piece. In hand made jewelry these are the parts that are normally produced by the goldsmith or silversmith. There are many production decorative findings available however such as CHARMS, FILIGREES, FESTOONS
HYBRID JEWELRY FINDINGS-The component parts or materials used in making a piece of jewelry that serve a mechanical function such as attaching, joining, linking, BUT due to their nature lend themselves to becoming decorative findings as well. Examples of hybrid jewelry findings include BEAD CAPS, BRACLET LINKS, LOCKET BAILS
BAIL: An oval-, teardrop-, or D-shaped metal component used to connect pendants to a chain. It is meant to slide onto the chain rather than to be soldered to it. (bail example)
BAR PIN: See "Pin Back"
BARREL NUT: A barrel-shaped clutch with a rubber-type insert that grips a pin; generally used for stick pins or earrings.
BASKET SETTING: An open-sided setting in which the lower portion of a stone is visible.
BEAD: 1.) A hollow metal form that is swaged from spinning seamless tubing, then separated and rolled into its final shape. It generally has two holes. 2.) Any small or rounded component, made from a variety of materials, with a hole through it; to be strung singly or with others in a sequence.
BEAD CAP: A metal ornament, sometimes filigree that is placed on a glass or stone bead to cover any roughness or damage around the drilled hole. Also serves to accentuate the beads.
(filigree bead cap examples)
BEAD CLASP: Typically, a clasp mechanism that is hidden in a bead or pearl.
BEAD TIP: A concave metal piece, attached to a metal loop, used to attach thread to a clasp. A knot sits inside the concave piece.
BELCHER SETTING A ring mounting in which the claws for the setting are formed from the shank of the ring.
BEZEL: Generally, a type of setting into which a continuous groove has been cut to fit a faceted stone. The metal above the groove is burnished over the edge of the stone to secure it.
BEZEL CUP: A type of setting designed to hold flat-backed stones in which the top of the setting is burnished over the stone to secure it in place. Generally available in plain edge, serrated edge, or rolled edge styles. Rolled edge styles require the stone be glued in place. (bezel cup example)
BEZEL WIRE: See "Channel Wire".
BOX SETTING: A square or rectangular grooved setting, generally used for mounting a stone on a ring or pendant. The top edges of the groove are swaged over to secure the stone.
(box setting example)
BRACELET LINK: A decorative piece often metal, having loops or rings on each end for linking with jump rings or connectors. (bracelet link examples)
BRELOQUE: A small item, such as a charm, designed to be suspended from a chain.
BROOCH: Any piece of jewelry that may be pinned to clothing.
BULLET CLUTCH: A barrel-shaped clutch with a rubber or mechanical insert that grips an earring post.
BUNCH RINGS: Inexpensive rings with small center mountings for inexpensive stones. Generally sold in bunches intended to be worn together. Also known as stack rings or stackable rings.
BUTTERCUP SETTING: Typically used for pendants and earrings, this deep, six-prong setting is shaped vaguely like the buttercup flower. The prongs are distinctly flared at the base, which has a scalloped outline when viewed from the top. Available in closed-back or open-back form. Also called a scallop setting.
BUTTERFLY CLUTCH: A clutch that grips a grooved post. It has two wings that are squeezed to release it from the post. Also called a grip fastener or military grip.
BUTTON LOOP TIE HOLDER: A metal piece with an indent in the middle for slipping over the button that goes behind the tie. Also has loops on each end for attaching a chain that goes in front of the tie.
CATCH: In brooches, a piece of hardware designed to accept and lock a top wire or a pin-stem; see also "Joint, Catch, and Pin-Stem." In necklaces and bracelets, it is the locking or closing mechanism; see also "Clasp."
CHAIN TAG: A flat metal piece, usually a small square or rectangle, with a hole in each end. Its specific function is to carry the quality stamp or trademark of the manufacturer, and to provide an easily handled attachment point for spring rings. Also known as a quality tag or a plaque.
Over the last few years these tags have taken on many shapes and sizes and are often used to define the country of origin as well. (country of origin example)
CHANNEL SETTING: A setting in which the stones are fitted into groves in two parallel walls, as opposed to being held separately by prongs.
CHANNEL WIRE: Narrow flat stock that has been formed into a channel. Also known as bezel wire, eyeglass wire, and U-wire.
CHARM: A miniature object designed to be attached to a chain bracelet. Charms can depict figures, sports, occupations, numbers, and letters, among the many representations available. Generally designed for bracelets, charms may also be used as pendants, or hung from brooches and watch chains. (charms examples)
CHATON: A foil-backed glass or manmade stone.
CLAMP: A metal prong or claw on a gemstone setting. Also called a cramp.
CLASP: A fastening device, such as a catch or hook, used to hold two or more objects or parts together, as with chains.
CLIP: A two-part piece attached to the back of an earring. The two pieces closed around the earlobe, using mechanical pressure to hold the earring in place.
CLUSTER SETTING: A metal form, generally circular, for setting multiple stones close together.
CLUTCH: See "Ear Nut" or "Butterfly Clutch."
CLUTCH AND BAR: A tie tack clutch with a small chain attached to a bar. The bar is designed to pass through a buttonhole to secure a necktie.
CLUTCH BACK: See "Ear Nut" or "Butterfly Clutch."
COMFORT DISC: A plastic disc that fits over the post of a pierced earring for greater comfort.
CORRUGATED BEAD: A hollow metal sphere, with two holes, made from corrugated tubing. Twist-corrugated beads have corrugations that spiral around the bead horizontally instead of vertically.
CRIMP BEAD: A very small piece of cut tubing used to finish off a strand of beads. The cord goes through the crimp, through the clasp, and back through the crimp, which is then flattened with crimping pliers or needle nosed pliers to secure the cord.
CUFF LINK: A jewelry item designed to close buttonless shirt cuffs (French cuffs). It consists of two decorative pieces connected by a bar or chain that fits through the buttonhole and swivels to lock the cuffs together.
DOME: Any convex decoration. It can be made manually with a dapping block and a dapping punch, or by using a power press.
DOUBLET: Any stone made of two component parts, frequently genuine stones combined with glass, plastics, or synthetic stones.
DROP: A small ornament suspended from a piece of jewelry. (drop examples)
EAR BACK: See "Ear Nut."
EAR CLIP: See "Clip."
EAR CUFF FINDINGS: A non-traditional earring, rolled like a finger ring with a notch cut out of it for slipping over the middle part of the ear. Predominately made of flat stock but could be made of filigree or other decorative stampings.
EAR NUT: A clutch with a hole through which an earring post is attached to secure the earring to the earlobe. The friction version has two curved wings that grasp a grooved post. Also referred to as earring back, clutch, push back, or clutch back.
EAR POST: See "Post."
EAR SCREW: A U-shaped earwire with a threaded back, which clamps earrings to unpierced ears.
EAR WIRE: A bow of wire, looped to fasten an earring to a pierced ear. It is generally made of precious metal or hypoallergenic surgical steel. See also "Kidney Wire."
EARRING BACK: See "Ear Nut."
EARRING CLUTCH: See "Ear Nut."
EARRING JACKET: A separate decorative component that can be added to an earring (or interchanged with other components) by the wearer to create different looks. For example, various beads that can be attached to an earring and changed. (ear ring jacket examples)
ENHANCER: A bail-like finding that may be opened to fit over a strand of pearls or beads and then locked closed. Also known as a pearl enhancer.
ETCHING: See "Metal Etching."
EUROWIRE: See "Leverback."
EYE: A loop, made of wire or other material, used as a connector for chains, pendants, etc.
EYE PIN: A wire of varying length that has been manipulated at one end to form a loop to which decorative stones or beads can be attached.
EYEGLASS WIRE: See "Channel Wire."
FANCY GALLERY: See "Gallery."
FERRULE: A metal band or cap that is fitted to the end of wire, thread, cord, wood, or other material to prevent fraying or to add decoration.
FESTOON: A pendant with rings on both sides, through which chain or cord can be attached. It usually functions as the centerpiece of the necklace. (festoon example)
FIGURE-EIGHT SAFETY: A type of safety catch in which a figure eight or hourglass-shaped hinged wire snaps over a pin.
FILIGREE: Ornamental work formed of bent wire that is soldered into delicate and complex designs, somewhat reminiscent of lace patterns. It also may be stamped or cast. (filigree examples)
FISHHOOK: A fishhook-shaped finding used to make earrings. The hook end passes through the pierced ear, while an ornament hangs from the other end. Also known as French wire or French ear wire.
FISH HOOK CLASP: See "Lobster Claw."
FOB: A chain or ribbon attached to a pocket watch. Used to pull the watch out of a pocket, or to attach the watch to clothing with a pin.
FRENCH CLIP: An alternative to a pierced earring, it incorporates a spring clip (tension on the ear is provided by a spring-loaded pad) and a pad-tipped screw, which adjusts the tension of the spring clip.
FRENCH WIRE: See "Ear Wire."
FRICTION POST: See "Post."
FUSION POST: A post used in the fusion- or percussion-welding process. It resembles a normal post but has an "initiating nib" at the end. During assembly, when the positively charged post contacts the negatively charged base, an electric arc occurs that fuses the post to the jewelry item.
GALLERY: A name for metal strips used to make settings for stones or used as a decorative design element in a piece of jewelry. A gallery is generally manufactured as a continuous strip with a repeated design. A highly decorated example is referred to as a fancy gallery.
GRIP FASTENER: See "Butterfly Clutch."
GUARD CHAIN: A small chain with one end attached next to the clasp of a necklace or bracelet, the other end to a loop or link on the opposite end of the piece. It is used as a fail-safe in case the clasp opens.
HEAD: See "Setting."
HEADED PIN OR HEAD PIN: A wire of varying length or diameter with a flat or domed end that is of slightly larger diameter than the rest of the wire. Used for stringing or attaching beads, in which the bead is seated on the flat or dome of the head pin.
HEISHI BEADS: Small shell or other disc beads, usually white, of American Indian origin.
HIDDEN SCREW CLASP: A necklace fastener consisting of two short barrels with screws that connect. The clasp is partially buried in the bead or pearl, giving the necklace a claspless look when screwed together.
HOLLOW WIRE: Tubular stock used for making beads, bracelets, or chain. May be solder-filled.
HOOP: Metal wire or tubing that has been formed into individual rings. Used for earrings, bracelets or necklace segments. Some hoops are stamped from strip.
HOOP WIRE: See "Top Wire."
I.D. BRACELET: Usually a link-type bracelet with a curved center plate on which a monogram is engraved. These center plates can be in a variety of shapes and sizes.
ILLUSION SETTING: A type of prong setting containing a faceted metal plate that surrounds the girdle of a diamond, thus making the diamond appear larger.
INVISIBLE SETTING: A variation of the pave’ look, this type of setting applies only to multi-stone arrangements. It is designed to hide all metal around the stone. Rather than having beads of metal hold the stone in place, the stones are cut in a way that allows them to snap into each other.
JACKET: See "Earring Jacket."
JOINT: See "Joint, Catch, and Pin-Stem."
JOINT, CATCH, AND PIN-STEM: An assembly used to affix jewelry items, such as brooches, to clothing. The joint serves as the fulcrum on which the pin-stem pivots. The catch is a hook into which the pin-stem fits when closed. (See also "Safety Catch.") The pin-stem is a sharply pointed pin (suitable for piercing clothing) with a base fashioned into a hole or T-shape to facilitate connection with the joint. See also "Pin Back."
JUMP RING: A plain wire ring of any size, usually round or oval in shape, used for attaching jewelry parts. In general, the ends of the wire are bent together, but not soldered.
KIDNEY WIRE: A wire, formed into a kidney shape, to which dangling earrings are attached. Used in pierced earring applications, it is generally closed, as opposed to a shepherd hook or a fishhook, which remains open.
LANYARD HOOK: A springy flat stock wire item formed wide at one end, narrow at the other. It opens inward with thumb pressure and stays closed by the temper of the wire. Used as connectors for zipper pulls and tag holders. Frequently a decorative ornament or charm is attached to the lanyard hook
LAPPED BORDER: The polished edge of an item achieved by using a non-yielding surface, such as a stiff felt wheel or a wood wheel. It gives the appearance of a rounded edge.
LAVALIER: An ornament hanging from a chain, worn around the neck.
LEVER BACK: A hook-shaped ear wire that is hinged to a spring-loaded closure piece at the base of the hook. In the open position, the ear wire passes through a pierced hole in the earlobe. The closure piece is then snapped shut against the ear wire to secure it onto the earlobe. Also called a Eurowire or German ear wire.
LINK CONNECTOR: A finding attached to a decorative cuff-link element, it is placed through the buttonhole and is then secured to lock cuff ends together. The most popular style of link connector is vertically inserted, then swiveled to a horizontal position, ensuring cuff-link security. Also called airplane backs or wingbacks.
LOBSTER CLAW: A clasp shaped somewhat like a lobster’s claw. The "pincer" arm is under tension by an internal spring mechanism that is opened and closed by a lever on its side.
LOCKET: A small, hollow, hinged pendant. The wearer can keep photos, locks of hair, or other mementos inside.
LOCKET BAIL: An oval- or D-shaped metal component used to connect pendants, specifically lockets, to a chain. It is meant to slide onto the chain rather than to be soldered to it. Also called a clip-on bail. (locket bail examples)
LOOP: See "Jump Ring."
MESH: A finely woven metal fabric.
METAL ETCHING: A method of creating a design on metal using acid. Parts of the metal are covered and protected from the action of the acid, while the exposed parts are eaten away by the acid to form a design.
METAL STAMPING: An ornamental stamped metal part, generally formed by die-striking.
MILANESE MESH: A flexible mesh created by weaving interlocking wire spirals. It can be made into various shapes and forms, such as necklaces, bracelets, rings, etc.
MILITARY GRIP: See "Butterfly Clutch"
MORDANT: An acid used to etch the surface of metal, glass, stone, etc.
MOTIF: See "Charm"
MOUNTING: A piece of jewelry onto which a stone or stones will be set. It can take several forms, such as a ring, a pendant, a bracelet, or a necklace.
NECK CHAIN: A chain that can be used to hang a variety of ornaments, such as lockets, crosses, and beads, around the neck. It varies in length and can be worn separately or in multiples.
NO-HOLE BALL: Either a hollow metal sphere swaged from seamless tubing or a solid metal sphere machined from rod. (Solid no-hole balls are generally brass, while hollow no-hole balls are available in both base and precious metals.) After swaging, the ball is separated and rolled into shape. Mostly used as ball earrings with posts.
NOVELTIES: See "Charm"
OMEGA CLIP: The name for a wire finding shaped like the Greek letter omega. Used as a clip earring finding, the omega wire pivots in one end of a yoke or joint attached to the earring.
ONE-HOLE BALL: A hollow metal sphere with one hole. It is made by drawing flat stock into a cup, then rolling it until it forms a sphere, leaving a small opening or "hole."
PAD INSERT: A molded rubber insert that fits into or over the clip portion of a clip earring for greater comfort.
PAVE’ SETTING: A method of setting small stones as close together as possible, so that the piece literally looks "paved" with stones.
PEARL CUP: A cup designed to hold a pearl secured by adhesive. It sometimes has a small peg that fits into a hole in the pearl for added security.
PEARL SHORTENER: A hinged ring that may be used to shorten an opera-length pearl strand. The strand is doubled and the two resulting loops are hooked into the shortener.
PEG SETTING: 1.) A peg often set into a metal cup or hemisphere, which fits into a hole drilled into a pearl. The pearl is then fastened by cement or epoxy. 2.) Any setting with a small pin on the bottom that then fits through a hole that has been drilled or cast in a ring or plate, securing the setting.
PELICAN CLASP: A clasp similar to a lobster claw in construction but more narrow and slightly curved. See also "Lobster Claw."
PENDANT: An ornament designed to be suspended from a chain or necklace.
PHOTO ETCHING: See "Metal Etching."
PINCH BAIL: A metal jewelry finding which is sold partially folded in half with short prongs on the inside of each end. When pinched together, either by hand or with pliers, it holds a pendant chain or cord and the pendant itself hanging from the chain or cord. It serves as a jump-ring but is usually decorative, adding to the overall design of the pendant.
PIN BACK: A joint, catch, and pin-stem assembly that is pre-assembled on a metal plate (then ends of the plate are actually formed into the joint and catch). The entire unit may be attached to a piece of jewelry by soldering or gluing. Also called a bar pin. See also "Joint, Catch, and Pin-Stem."
PIN-STEM: See "Joint, Catch, and Pin-stem."
PLAQUE: See "Chain Tag."
POST: A pin-like finding attached to an earring. It passes through the pierced earlobe and is usually secured by a clutch.
PRONG: A claw or wire used to fasten and hold a stone in a setting. See also "Prong Setting."
PRONG SETTING: A setting consisting of a series of prongs (generally four or six) that hold a stone.
PUSH BACK: See ‘Ear Nut."
QUALITY TAG: See "Chain Tag."
RABBIT EAR BAIL: See "V-Bail."
RING BLANK: A stamped finger ring of any style that has yet to go through the various finishing processes.
ROLLED BEAD: A cut metal bead that has been rolled. The term is applied only to round beads, not to oval or oddly shaped beads.
RONDELLE: See "Roundel."
ROUND SETTING: A round-shaped metal form that uses prongs, bezels, or any other means of clamping the stone securely.
ROUNDEL: A doughnut-shaped bead of precious or base metal that is used as a spacer or an accent in stringing applications.
SAFETY CATCH OR SAFETY CLASP: A secondary catch functioning as a back-up to the main clasp in case of failure.
SAFETY CATCH FOR A PIN-STEM: A catch which incorporates a sliding piece that locks the pin-stem in the closed position, thereby prevent accidental release.
SAFETY CHAIN: See "Guard Chain."
SCALLOP SETTING: See "Buttercup Setting."
SCREW BACK: An ear nut or clutch that screws onto a threaded post.
SCREW BACK EAR CLIP: An ear clip with a threaded screw that tightens an earring against a non-pierced earlobe for tension adjustment.
SCREW CLASP: A necklace fastener consisting of two short barrels with screws that connect.
SCREW EYE: A straight, short wire with a ring at one end. The straight end is inserted into a pearl with adhesive to convert it into a pearl drop.
SEMI-MOUNTING: A mounting that is only partially set. It usually has small side stones, but no main or center stone.
SETTING: A metal form into which a stone is set using prongs, a bezel, or any other means of holding the stone.
SHANK: In a ring, the shank is the part that surrounds the finger. The shank and the setting in which a stone is to be set are collectively referred to as a ring mounting.
SHEPHERD HOOK: A pierced earring wire shaped like a shepherd’s crook-similar to fishhook wire but with a longer shaft. See also "Ear Wire."
SISTER HOOK: Two overlapping metal hooks hinged to form a heart outline when open. Used as a clasp.
SOLDER-FLUSHED FINDING: A type of finding that has a solder coating, facilitating assembly with quick heating.
SOLDERING TAB: A metal loop (commonly brass) with a small rectangle or square appendage. Used for adding loops to products by soldering or gluing
SOLITAIRE: Generally used to describe a ring with a single center stone, or the stone itself.
SPOKES-Metal stampings made in various configurations for the making of a variety of clusters. Most although not all are characterized by having a center with a hole, and "spokes" extending out from the center in many different shapes and forms.
SPRING HINGE: A hinge that incorporates a spring in its construction to always keep a piece, such as a bangle bracelet made of two halves, in the closed position.
SPRING RING: A circular tube-just short of a complete circle-inside which a coiled spring presses on the inner end of a curved wire. The wire projects from the tube to complete the circle. By pressing on a small lip, the wire can be pushed back into the tube, allowing the ends of necklaces, bracelets, etc., to be attached.
SPLIT RING: An oval or round ring in which the metal spirals and functions just like a split key ring. It provides added security when attaching charms or ornaments to necklaces or bracelets.
STAMPING: The operation by which a press is used to strike and form metal in a die. Generally feasible only when long runs are anticipated due to set-up time and tooling costs.
SWIVEL: Used to attach watches or other finished jewelry items to a chain. Usually comprises an oversize metal loop on one end that can be opened and firmly closed. The size of the metal loop allows the jewelry piece to move freely while remaining secured.
TALLIS CLIP: Also known as an alligator clip or sweater clip. Usually embellished, then assembled with a chain in pairs.
THREADED POST: A screw post that requires the use of a threaded ear nut.
TIE BAR: A metal clip that uses spring tension to attach the mid-portion of the tie to the shirt.
TIE TACK: A short pin with an ornamental top used to pin the tie to the shirt.
TIFFANY SETTING: Generally a round, six- prong setting in which the prongs flare out gracefully to clamp the stone. Sometimes used to describe a four-prong setting.
TOGGLE CHAIN: A short piece of chain that connects two functioning parts, such as a key ring and a spring ring. It allows for flexibility between the parts.
TOGGLE CLASP: The method of attaching necklaces or bracelets whereby a rigid metal bar (plain or highly decorated) is inserted through a ring. When the bar is turned sideways, it is prevented from coming back through the ring, providing closure.
TOP WIRE: A straight or humped wire with a loop at one end that attaches to a hinge. It is inserted into a pierced earlobe and snapped into a catch, securing a hoop or dangling earring.
TWIST-CORRUGATED BEAD: See "Corrugated Bead."
U-WIRE: See "Channel Wire."
UNIT CLUSTER SETTING: Any flat or domed plate drilled to accommodate melee.
V-BAIL: A two-loop bail that looks like a "V" from the front. Also known as a rabbit ear bail.
VERMEIL: A heavy gold electroplate (not less than 10k) over sterling. According to FTC standards, the minimum thickness of the plating must be equivalent to 100 millionths of an inch (2.5 microns) of fine gold.
Initially published in AJM magazine by The Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America September 2000.
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